Amazon Jungle, Brasil


The Rains in Peru


Waiting For the Sun
Waiting For the Sun

A few days ago, I learned about the torrential rains around Machu Picchu whilst watching the news at my hostel in Melbourne. Seeing the devastation caused by the flooding of the Urubamba River, and hearing that at least one trekker and one guide lost their lives due to mudslides on the Inka Trail, hit particularly close to home for me.

When I was in South America between late August and early December of last year, I didn't go to Machu Picchu or Cuzco. I didn't go because I spent two weeks visiting the area back in 2006.

That trip -- almost four years ago now -- was the direct inspiration for my decision to quit my job, pack up everything and take at least a year out for long-term travel.

Heading into the Ruins
Heading into the Ruins

My four-day trek along the Inka Trail, and arriving at Machu Picchu just in time to see the first rays of sun hit the ruins (even though I was exhausted, weak, and suffering from gastrointestinal issues brought on by food bugs or mild altitude sickness), still ranks up there as one of the top three travel experiences of my life. All the things I did in Peru in 2006; all the people I met; are a nexus to the adventures I'm having on my current trip.

So I can't help but feel overly pensive when I see visuals of raging waters rushing past where Shahid, Jon, Rachel and I sat sipping White Russians in the hot springs at Aguas Caliente. When I think of flows of mud crashing down on the campsites we slept on while over-nighting at Winay Wayna. When I think of the severing of road and rail access between Aguas Caliente and Cuzco -- roads our group drove along to get to Kilometre 82 at the start of the Inka Trail; and the trains we rode, complete with llama garment fashion shows, back to Cuzco afterwards.

Looking Towards Huayna Picchu
Looking Towards Huanya Pichu

It could have been worse. The ruins themselves have been unaffected by the rain. Thousands of travellers that had been stranded at Machu Picchu and Aguas Caliente have been airlifted and evacuated back to Cuzco. In previous years, the Peruvian government had closed the Inka Trail for the entire month of February anyway, for maintenance and preservation work. But the Machu Picchu ruins had always remained open.

This year, it may be months before access is restored, dealing a harsh blow to an area, and a country where the economy is so dependent on tourism.

I hope the area can recover soon, and that travellers from all over the world can again journey to the Lost Inkan City. Machu Picchu is a magical place.

The place changed my life.

Morning Illumination (Revisited)
Sunrise at Machu Picchu -- May 25th, 2006

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