Nelson

All-Round View From the Centre of New Zealand

Nelson is possibly the most chilled out place in New Zealand. Given that the entire country is as laid back as it is, that's really saying something. During my first stroll down Collingwood Street, I spotted a number of VW campervans parked on the side of the road. As I passed by the first one, the side door opened. Smoke billowed out of the opening as if to signal the arrival of the three beatniks who stumbled onto the pavement. They were giggling incessantly and eyeing the Burger King in the distance with looks bordering on sexual longing. Nobody else viewing this even missed a step. I knew right there and then that this was my kind of town. By this, I mean that it was – after three weeks of seeing puritanical liquor ban ordinances in effect on every other street on the North Island – refreshing to be in a setting libertarian enough that toking up along a main drag seemed to cause nary a ripple in the social fabric; and not that it was a place where weed seemed readily available. Not that I think there's much wrong with weed being readily available.

Earlier that day, I said my farewells to my East As! travelling buddies, who had elected to spend more time in Wellington before crossing south. These turned out to be more of farewell grunts as I had to be up at the ungodly hour of 6:45am, after the full-on Christmas Day drinking binge that started less than twenty-four hours previous. (Our hostel had wisely having decided to relax its liquor restriction policies just for the day, since there's little to do in Welly over Christmas but drink.) Most of the group sensibly stayed in bed, all except for Emily – happy trooper that she is – who decided that I needed a proper send-off and stood on the sidewalk waving manically as my bus to the ferry terminal pulled away. It is exactly this type of feel for the theatrical that will serve her well as she attends the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama this fall.

The Centre of the Country. Sort Of.

Travel between the North and the South Island came aboard the Interislander Ferry, which plies the route between Wellington and Picton. The weather was perfect for the three-hour crossing of the Cook Strait, where sea conditions can turn somewhat dodgy if the winds are coming in from the wrong direction. The scenery we passed whilst coming through Malborough Sound – our gateway to the South – was quite soothing on the eyes. My only regret is that I didn't take any photos. The sights also proved quite soothing to the brain, adding to my already catatonic state. (Please refer to the aforementioned previous day's alcohol consumption.) 

I suppose that my general inactivity aboard the ferry was merely a prelude. Due to a quirk in the Kiwi Experience departure schedule, I got to spend two full days in Nelson. There are plenty of things to do in the area. One can visit the Marlborough wine-growing region – known for producing some tasty Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs. One can tramp through Abel Tasman National Park – home of the beautiful Abel Tasman Coast Track, a popular route along the coastline of Tasman Bay. One can also delve into the caves around Takaka Hill, reputedly some of the deepest explored in the Southern Hemisphere.

View From the Golden Lodge

I didn't do any of that stuff. I leisurely wandered the streets, looking out for quaint Victorian architecture. I sipped a couple of short blacks (Down Under for espresso) at the Zumo Coffee House and a couple more at Pomeroy's down the street. I hiked up to the "Centre of New Zealand" (which is more of a close approximation) and spent time reading my books up there at a vantage point overlooking the town, Tasman Bay and the Maitai Valley. I raided the local supermarkets for fresh produce and cooked myself up a couple of good meals. I watched Avatar at Nelson's 3D-equipped theatre. Whilst I never made it out to the vineyards, I had ample opportunity to sample a few bottles of Marlborough wine from the comfort of the Golden Lodge, easily the nicest placed I stayed in whilst travelling New Zealand.

Could I have done more with my time? Sure. But I have no regrets. I chose to take it easy, using my time to recharge and to do a whole lot of nothing. I was certainly in the right place – there are only one or two spots in New Zealand in which I would choose to relax over Nelson. And relax I did. I didn't even need marijuana to do it. All it took was a few sunsets with a glass of Pinot Noir in hand, and the smell of garlic-and-rosemary-marinated lamp chops wafting over from the grill.

Looking East to the Maitai Valley

Related Posts:
1. Christmas in Wellington
2. East As!
3. The Kiwi Experience